Beyond the Fleece: The Engineering of Modern French Terry

In my two decades on the factory floor, I’ve seen countless brands settle for “brushed fleece” because it’s soft at first touch. But true luxury loungewear designers know that unbrushed French Terry is where the real engineering happens. 

A premium French Terry isn’t just a fabric; it’s a moisture-management system. If the loops on the inside are irregular or “loose,” the garment will lose its shape after three washes. 

At CdGarment, we treat loop density as a structural science.


the comparison of Budget French Terry vs CdGarment QUALITY
the comparison of Budget French Terry vs CdGarment QUALITY

The 3 Secrets to a “Non-Sag” French Terry

  1. Uniform Loop Geometry: In low-cost mills, the “looper” needles on the knitting machine are often poorly calibrated, leading to “snags” or uneven heights. At CdGarment, we use high-speed circular knitting machines that ensure every single loop is identical in height, providing a smooth, non-irritating feel against the skin.

  2. The “Stay-Flat” Tension Balance: French Terry is notorious for curling at the edges during cutting. By balancing the tension between the “face yarn” (the smooth side) and the “loop yarn” (the back), we create a fabric that stays flat. This is critical for the 0.5cm Size Tolerance we discussed in Article #3-The 5% Rule.

  3. High-Density “Fish Scale” Knit: Our premium 400 GSM French Terry uses a “Fish Scale” (also known as Zhu Di) pattern. This dense structure provides the “weight” and “structure” that luxury streetwear brands demand without needing synthetic fillers.

Factory Specs for Luxury Loungewear

FeatureMarket Standard TerryCdGarment “Fish Scale” Terry
Interior FinishLoose / Irregular LoopsHigh-Density Uniform Loops
Weight Consistency+/- 10% Variance+/- 3% Precision
Pilling GradeGrade 2-3 (Fuzzy)Grade 4.5 (Anti-Pilling)
StructureBecomes “Baggy” quicklyHigh Recovery / Retains Shape

At CdGarment, we believe the inside of your garment should look as good as the outside. We engineer our French Terry to be breathable, structural, and—above all—consistent.

Does your current French Terry look “shaggy” after one wash? [Order our French Terry Comparison Pack] and see why loop density is the secret to premium streetwear.